Thursday, September 19, 2013

Parts Inside Your Printer Are at the End of Their Service Life

Today, while printing with my Epson Photo R200 printer, the following dialog box popped up:

parts inside your printer are at the end of their service life

Ok. I thought. I've used my printer enough now to wear out some major part like a motor or a cog wheel or a print head. I figured it had to be something major.

Next, I googled parts inside your printer are at the end of their service life and I found the following YouTube video. The video is wonderful! The video totally convinced me that I have nothing major wrong with my printer:

Why Replace The Epson Waste Pads?

In the 2 minutes and 33 seconds it takes to view this video, it shows you what a waste pad is and why you may not need to replace your waste pads at all.

For a slightly different point of view, see this video:

Clearing Parts Inside the Printer Have Reached the End of Their Service Life

The second video, which is 3 minutes and 48 seconds long, takes a more conservative approach. It seems to be suggesting you replace the waste pads as long as the cost does not exceed the cost of the printer itself. However, it also makes allowances for those who don't care that much about their waste pads possibly because hey are about to buy a new printer anyhow.

This webpage makes it easy to reset the waste pad protection counter on your Epson printer:

SSC Service Utility

The above page is a download page for some software that you can use to reset the protection counter. It is the protection counter that tells you when your waste pads are likely used up.

I've tried the SSC Service Utility and it worked! It reset the waste pad protection counter ---- no problem. At first, I was slightly confused by the utility. Then I referred back to the download page and read that you right-click the utility on the task bar to reset the waste pad after selecting your printer from the pull-down menu. See instructions on the download page above.

Here's a general discussion on the protection counter:

Parts Are at the End of Their Service Life

I have some thoughts of my own as to why Epson has a protection counter. It occurs to me that some people will print one thousand pages in one month and other people will print one thousand pages in 3 years.

Also, some people live in Florida where the air is wet and some people live in Arizona where it is dry. So, depending on how often you use your printer, and depending on how dry the air is could factor in as to when the waste pad needs replacing.

I'm going to guess that the waste pad may or may not need replacing when the protection counter triggers depending on where you live and your pattern of printer usage. In all probability, the protection counter is conservative to be on the safe side.

I'm sure Epson would rather have a protection counter than have customers complain about ink leaking out of the bottom of their printer. Hence the conservatism of the protection counter.

When programmers write programs, they program for the worst case scenario. The protection counter is probably programmed for the worst case scenario. Just a guess on my part.

Ed Abbott

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Unclogging My Printer ---- Again!

Once again, I'm unclogging my Epson R200. Don't get me wrong. It's a great great printer. However, it's also an old printer --- over 7 years old.

I use refillable ink cartridges and these do tend to clog. I suspect it is because of the age of the ink. Some of my refillable ink bottles are years old.

The black ink is especially old. If I recall right, it is at least 5 years old. I'm noticing that it is starting to stick to the sides of the bottle rather than appear to be fully liquid.

As odd as it sounds, I suspect that some of the clumping is due to water evaporation. Even though the bottles appears to be fully sealed, the water must be escaping the black ink refill bottle one molecule at a time.

So, now, once again, I'm experimenting with adding distilled water to my ink. My ink cartridges take about 10-12 milliliters of ink. I just added 3 milliliters of distilled water to the cartridge. Therefore, the cartridge is now at least 25 percent added distilled water.

That might sound like an alarming addition of water. However, inkjet ink is mostly water anyway. So adding enough water to the ink to make the ink 25 percent added distilled water may not be as outrageous as it sounds.

I have no idea whether or not this is going to work. One reason I do not know is that the symptoms are a little bit different this time. This time, the black test pattern prints just fine except that it is a little skewed

It is a little skewed in such a way as to make some of the stair steps extra long. As many as 3 stair steps on the test pattern are together as one level stair step. Clearly this is not right.

Is this because the black ink is clumping together? I'm not sure. It may take a while to find out. If the ink is gumming up the works, it may take a while to fully clear the problem.

In the meantime, my printed documents look okay. The problem shows up as a certain amount of subtle banding in the type face. It's perfectly readable but not perfect. I'm going to observe the type face in the coming month to see if this problem clears up.

I've extended the life of my Epson R200 printer far beyond the point where most people would have given up. Can I extend its life a bit further?

Update: September 23, 2013

Adding 3 milliliters of ink to my ink cartridge has worked better than I dared hope. I no longer see banding when I print documents. Before, the banding was quite noticeable.

Furthermore, the test pattern that I produce when I hold down the formfeed on my R200 and hit the power bottom to power up seems to be almost, but not quite, perfect. When I first glanced at it I thought it was perfect.

Later I notice a slight skew in lines 2 and 3 (line 1 being at the bottom of the pattern). The stair steps are almost perfect, but not quite.

Since the printer is printing more or less perfectly now, I could probably afford to add a milliliter of water, or so, each time I refill the ink cartridge. I can also add a milliliter of distilled water to the remaining open ink bottles.

In this way, I might be able to solve the problem at its source which is old ink that does not seem to be fully hydrated. That's the theory.

In actual practice, I don't care. Since my R200 is 8 years old, it seems to me it is at the end of its useful life. Therefore, destroying the printer in the hopes of fixing it is a reasonable option.

I'm certainly not recommending anyone else add distilled water to their ink cartridges. I'm just saying that, so far, it appears to have worked for me and I appear to be getting away with it.

Update: March 14, 2014

A miracle occurred this morning! For the very first time, a perfect black ink pattern printed when I powered on my printer while holding down the form feed button at the same time. All the little black stair steps are perfect!

As I reported above on September 23, 2013, they were almost perfect on that day, but not quite. Now, careful and judicious adding of distilled water to my black ink cartridge has restored black ink printing completely!

I had not dared hope that it would turn out this way. But it did. So, now I'm ready to make some assumptions.

I assume, based on my experience, that ink dries out over time. That is to say, microscopic amounts of water evaporate from the bottles as the bottles cannot truly be considered vacuum sealed. After all, they are cheap plastic bottles. How could they possibly form a perfect seal that stops all water evaporation, one molecule at a time?

I further assume that inkjet ink can be re-hydrated. It has taken me over a year to re-hydrate my black ink. Perhaps this is because I was doing it experimentally and incrementally so as to not overdo it.

For me, this is very empowering information. No longer do I have to throw out ink or an entire inkjet printer because the ink won't flow. Water is the universal solvent. It appears to me that it is definitely the universal solvent for inkjet ink.

Please be aware that you can almost certainly ruin your printer by adding too much water to the ink cartridges. The natural tendency of water is to flow out of ink cartridges because ink cartridges have a hole in the bottom.

Inkjet ink is viscous for a reason, I'm guessing. It's viscous to keep the ink from leaking out of the bottom. For this reason, I was very careful to add only little tiny bits of distilled water at a time.

Just because I added distilled water to my inkjet cartridges does not mean you have to do it too. As they say on TV, Don't try this at home!.

I was willing to sacrifice my whole printer on my distilled water experiment. The reason I was willing to do this is because my printer was not working and I was going to have to throw it out anyway. You may feel very differently about your printer, especially if it is working.

Also be aware the leaking water can cause electrical shorts that could lead to electrocution and possible death. Again, no one is recommending that you add water to your inkjet cartridges. Call your printer manufacturer's 800 number for better advice than I could possibly give. They know what they are talking about. I don't. I'm merely experimenting.

If in doubt, don't do it. Don't add distilled water to your inkjet cartridges. That's my best advice.

Update: April 16, 2014

I've been working on a formula for re-hydrating ink. The formula is this: Add 1 milliliter of distilled water for every 1/2 fluid ounce of ink.

This seems like a fairly conservative formula. Since my ink cartridges are about 12 milliliters, 1 milliliter is less than 10 percent of the total. I've added at least 1 milliliter of distilled water to my ink cartridges many times. In fact, I've added up to 3 milliliters of ink to an ink cartridge in order to get the ink flowing again.

1/2 fluid ounce is almost, but not quite, 15 milliliters. So, adding 1 milliliter per 1/2 fluid ounce is well under 10 percent dilution of the ink.

I have 3 black ink bottles, all of them with old ink. One of them is 2 fluid ounces, the next one is 4 fluid ounces and the third one is 16 fluid ounces (1 pint).

The following table can be used to hydrate these 3 ink bottles using the above formula:

Bottle Size Add This Amount
of Distilled Water
2 fluid ounces 4 milliliters
4 fluid ounces 8 milliliters
1 pint or 16 fluid ounces 32 milliliters

Recently, I more or less did exactly what the above table would suggest to my 3 bottles of black ink. Except that I made a mistake.

I miscalculated and added twice as much distilled water to my 2 fluid ounce bottle and my 4 fluid ounce bottle as I should have. However, I doubt my printer will suffer because of my mistake.

Doubling up on the amount of distilled water will probably not hurt the printer as the above table is, by design, a fairly conservative one.

Ed Abbott

Monday, January 7, 2013

Printing on Both Sides
of My Epson R200

I often forget how to print on both sides of
the paper. I'm writing down the steps here
as much for my memory as for anyone else's.

Here are the steps I use:

  1. Control-P to print (in most applications)
  2. Look for the print dialog to appear
  3. Checkmark Print on both sides of the paper
  4. Choose the Flip on short edge radio button
  5. Load as many sheets in the printer as needed
  6. Click print
  7. Let the paper pile up as it comes out of the printer
  8. The pile of paper before you is printed on one side
    of the paper but not the other side
  9. Hold in your hands the pile of paper oriented so that
    you can read the first page from top to bottom. In other
    words, orient the pile of printed paper the way a person
    normally does when reading.
  10. Flip the paper in such a way as to feed the blank
    side of the pile of paper with the top of the flip side
    going into the printer first. In other words feed the
    printer from the top of the pages but flipped over.
  11. By now, a resume dialog has appeared
  12. Click resume after feeding the printer the
    flip side of the pile of paper
  13. The flip side of the pile now starts printing

These steps are for printing an Adobe Acrobat Reader document
(PDF) with 8-1/2 by 11 paper (standard paper). It's probably
pretty similar in other software applications.

The directions are for flipping the paper on the short side.
I find flipping the paper on the short side more intuitive
because I'm consistently feeding the printer the top of the
page first, regardless of which side I'm printing.

I've never tried flipping the long side. I would imagine
flipping the long side means you feed the second side
of the pile of paper the bottom first. In a way, this
makes sense as you are feeding back to the printer what
it just gave you by feeding it the other end of the pile
of paper.

I think of short-side flipping as other side flipping
and long-side flipping as other end flipping.

Another way to look at it that is probably even clearer
is short-side flipping is left-to-right flipping
whereas long-side flipping is end-to-end flipping.

In terms of reading the page, short-side flipping is
left-to-right flipping. Long-side flipping in
terms of how you read the page is end-over-end flipping.

A final thought: However, you flip the paper, you let the
paper pile up naturally. There's no need to worry about
what order the pages come out of the printer. The printer
takes care of that.

Page order is not your issue. Your only issue is flipping
the pile while, at the same time, leaving it in the same order
that it comes out of the printer in.

The miracle of natural order is it is self-correcting:

The first time the printer spits the pile of paper out,
the pile is in reverse order and the last page appears
first.

Then the reverse order self-corrects:

When you feed the pile of paper to the printer a second
time, it reverses the paper again, thus correcting the
order. This is a case of two wrongs making a right.

Because the printer puts the paper in the wrong order twice,
it ends up being in the right order. Make sense?

Paper that is put in reverse order twice is in the right
order. That's it in a nutshell. The one cancels the other.

What do you do to make this work? Absolutely nothing.
Just let the printer spit out the paper in whatever order
it wants to and feed it back to the printer in that same
unaltered order and it all comes out OK.

On my printer, regardless of whether I use short-side flipping
or long-side flipping, the obverse side of the stack (the first
side) comes out in reverse page order. After I flip the paper to
the reverse side of the stack (the second side), the pages start
coming out in normal page order.

Hope this helps.

Update: April 2, 2013

No wonder I'm confused by long side verus short side flipping. Upon closer examination, I see there seems to be a bug in the software relationship between my Epson R200 and Adobe Reader.

The bug is this:

If you choose long side flipping, which is the default, you have to feed the paper back into the printer, bottom-of-the-page first. In doing this, you are flipping the paper twice.

You are flipping the paper twice because you are flipping both the short side and the long side. You flip the short side to get the blank side of the paper. You flip the long side to feed the paper from the bottom of the printed side first.

The resume dialog tells you differently:

If you follow the schematic of the resume dialog, after choosing long-side flipping, you would only flip on the short side. This is wrong! It is clearly wrong based on the result I get.

The takeaway? Forget long side flipping on the Epson R200. Use short side flipping only.

If you use long side flipping, you are flipping the paper 180 degrees twice. If you use short side flipping, you are flipping the paper 180 degrees only once.

When I say flip 180 degrees twice, I mean you flip from side to side and then from top to bottom. In other words, you are flipping two different edges, the long edge and the short edge.

It's very confusing, isn't it? The way to get a correct result is to choose short-side flipping only and to flip on the short edge only. If you do this, you are feeding the paper to the printer from the top of the page on both the obverse and reverse side. To me, this is much more consistent.

Ed Abbott